First I have to finish telling you about Siem Reap. Most people come here for the temples - well worth it and kinda the only thing to do....until you get to "Bar Street" and then it's like we turned the corner into Cabo. Needless to say, it was cra-zee! Bars, clubs, $.50 draft beers, bumpin music and the entire town's tourist population cruising around. This is where everyone goes after a long day at the temples. I was actually glad to sit and luxuriate w/ a few Beer Laos, b/c I let Josh convince me that bike riding through the park was a good idea. Actually it was, but I haven't owned a bike since 1992, much the less ridden one (seriously) since then. We biked for h.o.u.r.s. The distance wasn't long, maybe 20k or so, but damn, I was sore.
So we jumped on the overnight bus to the beach Friday night, which was just about as good as an overnight bus can be. Other than they oversold the seats, so 4 poor english guys had to sit in plastic chairs in the aisle for half of the journey. Every time someone had to use the loo, all 4 of them would have to move.
We got in about 6:30 this morning and the ground was still fresh from an early morning rain. Turns out it's been raining here for 2 weeks! but today there's a break in the weather, lucky us. I decided that after several days of being "in it" with other tourists, that we'd stay off the beaten path. I'm so glad we did. We negotiated our own bungalows for $3.50 a night, right on the beach! Best part: there are probably only 15 other "gringos" staying along this beach..
Looking forward to more of the same tomorrow - hammock naps, leisurely dips in the ocean, great seafood and of course, a beer lao or two.
I'm headed home on Monday and will be back Tuesday morning. So, that's it for the posts on this trip. thanks again for keeping track of me... with much love ~Farah
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Siem Reap, Cambodia
It is pissing down rain. Like flash flood style.
We didn't stay long in Phnom Penh, less than 24 hours, but I loved the city on first sight. I was hoping to get back after siem reap, but the call of the ocean is overwhelming and I've convinced Josh that a 10 hour overnight bus on Friday is a good idea.
We took a 6 hour bus ride from Phnom Penh and arrived in Siem Reap around 2pm and were immediately accosted at the bus station...ahh nothing like being back in a developing country, negotiating every-little-thing. Walter yelled the loudest and spoke the best english, so for a dollar each, brought us to his 'friend's' guesthouse. Oh, yeah...they use US dollars here. I think it's b/c their riel is 4000 to $1, which makes the math long, and you have to carry around like a million.
Our main objective is to spend a few days in the Angkor temple "park"". It kinda reminds me of Petra in Jordan, there's so much, it takes a few days. Around 5, walter picked us up in his tuk tuk, which is a semi automatic moped with a hitch pulling a "wagon". Super safe and maneuverable. We get to the park and climb up a little hill to this ahh-ma-zing stone temple. We scramble up the steepest set of stairs to be greeted by 360 views of Cambodia. Breath taking. And seven hundred other tourists. Awesome. So I'm cruising around, enjoying being in my own thoughts when the first rumble of thunder comes rolling across the sky. People are leaving. The first drops of rain start to fall and there's a mass exodus down the path. Josh and I are sitting watching, both of us thinking, "should we, shouldn't we?" walter tossed me an umbrella before we left, so I'm feeling confident. And then the sky opened up. there are 11 of us left at the top. so we sit and wait; sorta dry from the umbrella but not really. And then it really starts raining and I'm just laughing like a crazy lady...ask and you shall receive. we wanted less crowds and we got it :)
20 minutes later, soaked to the bone, walter greets us at the bottom and whisks us away for a steamy ride back. His tuk tuk is the delux model - it's got roll down plastic doors. Hell ya. Nothing but style, baby.
We didn't stay long in Phnom Penh, less than 24 hours, but I loved the city on first sight. I was hoping to get back after siem reap, but the call of the ocean is overwhelming and I've convinced Josh that a 10 hour overnight bus on Friday is a good idea.
We took a 6 hour bus ride from Phnom Penh and arrived in Siem Reap around 2pm and were immediately accosted at the bus station...ahh nothing like being back in a developing country, negotiating every-little-thing. Walter yelled the loudest and spoke the best english, so for a dollar each, brought us to his 'friend's' guesthouse. Oh, yeah...they use US dollars here. I think it's b/c their riel is 4000 to $1, which makes the math long, and you have to carry around like a million.
Our main objective is to spend a few days in the Angkor temple "park"". It kinda reminds me of Petra in Jordan, there's so much, it takes a few days. Around 5, walter picked us up in his tuk tuk, which is a semi automatic moped with a hitch pulling a "wagon". Super safe and maneuverable. We get to the park and climb up a little hill to this ahh-ma-zing stone temple. We scramble up the steepest set of stairs to be greeted by 360 views of Cambodia. Breath taking. And seven hundred other tourists. Awesome. So I'm cruising around, enjoying being in my own thoughts when the first rumble of thunder comes rolling across the sky. People are leaving. The first drops of rain start to fall and there's a mass exodus down the path. Josh and I are sitting watching, both of us thinking, "should we, shouldn't we?" walter tossed me an umbrella before we left, so I'm feeling confident. And then the sky opened up. there are 11 of us left at the top. so we sit and wait; sorta dry from the umbrella but not really. And then it really starts raining and I'm just laughing like a crazy lady...ask and you shall receive. we wanted less crowds and we got it :)
20 minutes later, soaked to the bone, walter greets us at the bottom and whisks us away for a steamy ride back. His tuk tuk is the delux model - it's got roll down plastic doors. Hell ya. Nothing but style, baby.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Chiang Mai
I think we've gotten bored. There are 300 temples in Chiang Mai, plus mountain biking, rafting, monkeys, bungee jumping, spelunking, tigers...every packaged tour you can think of...and yet I've been wandering aimlessly for 2 days. Plus this guesthouse we're staying in, while it has a very cool common/social area, is hosting the most dour-est of travelers. That's the word Josh and I have decided best describes this crabby bunch: dour. Even typing the word is sad.
However, I did have a pretty fantastic 1/2 day at the spa today and we've eaten our way through most of the town. So not all bad :) But I haven't felt the pull of this place like some have. So, just to spice it up a bit, we're heading to Cambodia! We got to talking (well he did most of the talking) to Captain Nick, a London-California-Thai transplant, who owns the only piano bar in town, and he sold us on a Cambodian trek he did, so we're off! This means I'm giving up island life at the end of my trip, but hopefully we'll make up for it on the Cambodian coast next weekend.
More when I get to CAMBODIA!
However, I did have a pretty fantastic 1/2 day at the spa today and we've eaten our way through most of the town. So not all bad :) But I haven't felt the pull of this place like some have. So, just to spice it up a bit, we're heading to Cambodia! We got to talking (well he did most of the talking) to Captain Nick, a London-California-Thai transplant, who owns the only piano bar in town, and he sold us on a Cambodian trek he did, so we're off! This means I'm giving up island life at the end of my trip, but hopefully we'll make up for it on the Cambodian coast next weekend.
More when I get to CAMBODIA!
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Bangkok to Chaing Mai
Glad to be moving out of Bangkok. That place seriously gave me the black lung.
Josh and I headed out on a 13-hour overnight train ride to Chiang Mai, northwest of Bangkok. The train was pretty luxurious for being '2nd class'. But just before 8pm, one of the stewards comes over and points to our bunks and says "sleep". Really? It's 7:45...we just cracked a Singha, we're chillin'. That was the look. He's obviously no dummy to this game, so he goes on and starts making other people's bunks. Which is kinda nice b/c my experience on overnight trains is getting linen tossed at me.
So we're drinking and carrying on, it's 8:10 and he's back. Josh and I have the 2 upper bunks and of course our lower bunkmates are ready to call it a night and have been evil eyeing us for the past 20 minutes. Really? again, it's barely 8pm. Fine. One of the servers tells us there's a dining car we can sit in - 'you can't miss it', he tells us. Well, duh, it's the next car over! So we slide the doors open and wouldn't you know, the place is jumpin'. Classic 70's jams, people carrying on over whiskeys and beers. It was - awesome.
We couldn't leave. We talked about it, we tried, we were sucked in.
And then this morning around 6am the steward comes around just as people are stirring and I'm peeking out from my curtain to see what the fuss is all about and he points to my bunk and says, "finished". Really? I guess that's good morning in Thai.
Needless to say, I need a nap.
Josh and I headed out on a 13-hour overnight train ride to Chiang Mai, northwest of Bangkok. The train was pretty luxurious for being '2nd class'. But just before 8pm, one of the stewards comes over and points to our bunks and says "sleep". Really? It's 7:45...we just cracked a Singha, we're chillin'. That was the look. He's obviously no dummy to this game, so he goes on and starts making other people's bunks. Which is kinda nice b/c my experience on overnight trains is getting linen tossed at me.
So we're drinking and carrying on, it's 8:10 and he's back. Josh and I have the 2 upper bunks and of course our lower bunkmates are ready to call it a night and have been evil eyeing us for the past 20 minutes. Really? again, it's barely 8pm. Fine. One of the servers tells us there's a dining car we can sit in - 'you can't miss it', he tells us. Well, duh, it's the next car over! So we slide the doors open and wouldn't you know, the place is jumpin'. Classic 70's jams, people carrying on over whiskeys and beers. It was - awesome.
We couldn't leave. We talked about it, we tried, we were sucked in.
And then this morning around 6am the steward comes around just as people are stirring and I'm peeking out from my curtain to see what the fuss is all about and he points to my bunk and says, "finished". Really? I guess that's good morning in Thai.
Needless to say, I need a nap.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Bangkok
Woo hoo! I'm here!
I woke up Tuesday morning with a fever and sore throat - sweet! 17 hour flight ahead of me into the land of, "we are thermally scanning your body temperature even before you hit immigration b/c damn it if another person dies of swine flu on my watch". Okay.
Again, but not surprising, I slept most of flight to Tokyo. Was awake and coherent long enough to make my connection. And passed out again. All this without one cocktail. Segway into: screw United International! $6 for an alcoholic beverage in Economy? After strolling through the 'suites' of first class and the luxury of business class, only to find that you and the rest of the herd have to fight for overhead bin space AND have to pay for booze? wtf
Anyway, both flights were uneventful (I think) and on time (shocking). I landed in Bangkok around 11pm on Wednesday and it was 80 degrees. Hell ya.
As soon as I got here, everything calmed down. I don't know if it's 24 hours of traveling, or just having the space and time to check out. I feel like I'm on the verge of being in this state all the time, but I never quite make it. It's so frustrating, b/c I know this one, and I can be good at it...what keeps me from getting there?
I'm meeting Josh, by bud who I traveled with in Turkey last year. I've heard from other travelers, that often times when you meet someone on the road and then see them in their home country the energy isn't the same. Well, not the case for Josh and I. He lives in SF and we hang out every so often and it's just as easy as I remember. Plus, it's hard to be in anyone's space 24/7, especially while traveling in a foreign country. So I knew when he said he'd be in Thailand, that 1) I had to come and 2) we are going to have a crazy good time.
The hotel he's staying in is RIDICULOUS. Swanky, modern, fabulous. Just what I need. We have dark hardwood floors in our room, washer/dryer, kitchenette, tub that I'm pretty sure I can stretch out in (which, if you're over 5'5" is a big deal). I'm looking out over downtown Bangkok right now, thinking about chillin by the pool this afternoon.
I'll be in Bangkok until Saturday, and then the adventure really starts...stay tuned.
I woke up Tuesday morning with a fever and sore throat - sweet! 17 hour flight ahead of me into the land of, "we are thermally scanning your body temperature even before you hit immigration b/c damn it if another person dies of swine flu on my watch". Okay.
Again, but not surprising, I slept most of flight to Tokyo. Was awake and coherent long enough to make my connection. And passed out again. All this without one cocktail. Segway into: screw United International! $6 for an alcoholic beverage in Economy? After strolling through the 'suites' of first class and the luxury of business class, only to find that you and the rest of the herd have to fight for overhead bin space AND have to pay for booze? wtf
Anyway, both flights were uneventful (I think) and on time (shocking). I landed in Bangkok around 11pm on Wednesday and it was 80 degrees. Hell ya.
As soon as I got here, everything calmed down. I don't know if it's 24 hours of traveling, or just having the space and time to check out. I feel like I'm on the verge of being in this state all the time, but I never quite make it. It's so frustrating, b/c I know this one, and I can be good at it...what keeps me from getting there?
I'm meeting Josh, by bud who I traveled with in Turkey last year. I've heard from other travelers, that often times when you meet someone on the road and then see them in their home country the energy isn't the same. Well, not the case for Josh and I. He lives in SF and we hang out every so often and it's just as easy as I remember. Plus, it's hard to be in anyone's space 24/7, especially while traveling in a foreign country. So I knew when he said he'd be in Thailand, that 1) I had to come and 2) we are going to have a crazy good time.
The hotel he's staying in is RIDICULOUS. Swanky, modern, fabulous. Just what I need. We have dark hardwood floors in our room, washer/dryer, kitchenette, tub that I'm pretty sure I can stretch out in (which, if you're over 5'5" is a big deal). I'm looking out over downtown Bangkok right now, thinking about chillin by the pool this afternoon.
I'll be in Bangkok until Saturday, and then the adventure really starts...stay tuned.
Pre-Bangkok
I'm making a huge assumption, that you actually want to hear about my travels in Thailand. And if you don't...well that's too bad, you're on the list. Plus it's only 2 weeks, I mean how much will there be, right? The blog seemed like too much for this trip, but the requests were overwhelming, so I'm giving in.
It took me a while to get excited for this trip...I had too much going on, I was burning the candle from both ends and I was tired. Remember how much I learned last year about balance, about being grounded, about learning how to center? Yeah, me too. But it's hard to do when 'real' life happens. Between working full time, spending time with friends, going to the gym or having a night of the Weeds, I inadvertently neglect the part of me that keeps my feet on the ground, my head on right and everything in between connected. And, it's not like I don't want to do any of these fun things (work excluded), but remembering to take time out for me is easier said than done. But, the good news is that I'm aware of it and I know when it's time to take a break.
Now I'm excited.
It took me a while to get excited for this trip...I had too much going on, I was burning the candle from both ends and I was tired. Remember how much I learned last year about balance, about being grounded, about learning how to center? Yeah, me too. But it's hard to do when 'real' life happens. Between working full time, spending time with friends, going to the gym or having a night of the Weeds, I inadvertently neglect the part of me that keeps my feet on the ground, my head on right and everything in between connected. And, it's not like I don't want to do any of these fun things (work excluded), but remembering to take time out for me is easier said than done. But, the good news is that I'm aware of it and I know when it's time to take a break.
Now I'm excited.
Friday, October 17, 2008
California Dreamin'
I can hardly believe it, much the less write it, but this will be my last blog entry on this amazing journey of mine. I've had a fantastic couple of days chilling with long time friends: Aaron, Kim and Eli in Seattle. Being here has helped me prepare for the journey home. I plan to take a week to drive from Seattle to the Bay and I want it to be me and the road home. So before I get into the finality of it, I want to tell you how much I have enjoyed writing this blog. Not only do I have a new found love of writing, but the more I hear that you've enjoyed reading it and traveling with me, the easier it is to share. And I needed to share with you...I needed to know you were out there. You've helped me focus on me (which is weird to say), to not be afraid of sharing my thoughts and voice my feelings. It's definitely been therapeutic for me...so thank you for keeping me going.
There is so much that I've learned and discovered on this trip, it's hard to put my feelings into words, but let's see if I can get it out :) Now that I've started learning more about myself, I am aware of my place in the world. But learning about other people's beliefs, culture and religion has given me direction, made me more understanding and increased my tolerance. I'm much more patient, but at the same time I am confident and powerful.
Although I'm nervous and, honestly, a little scared of coming home, I know good things await me when I get there...just as good things were awaiting out in the world. I won't lose perspective because I know what's important. I'll take chances because I know what it's like to be inspired and to be an inspiration.
I have met some incredible people on the road, but it didn't happen right away. I remember in the beginning, I barely spoke with anyone. I had to go inside myself and figure out what the hell was I doing and how I ended up here. And, I'll tell you, it was one of the toughest things I've had to do. But the reward is that I know what it means to have soul mates and I'm so lucky to have met a few men and women who will always be connected to my soul. In considering all these new connections and relationships, the thing that I admire most about myself is that I know how to be alone. So, very clearly from my body, heart and soul, I can tell you that I am finally happy.
I'm glad you've been with me to experience this life changing trip. I'm looking forward seeing you and hearing your thoughts about my journey and the changes I've made.
So keep the champagne chilled...because I'm finally coming home.
There is so much that I've learned and discovered on this trip, it's hard to put my feelings into words, but let's see if I can get it out :) Now that I've started learning more about myself, I am aware of my place in the world. But learning about other people's beliefs, culture and religion has given me direction, made me more understanding and increased my tolerance. I'm much more patient, but at the same time I am confident and powerful.
Although I'm nervous and, honestly, a little scared of coming home, I know good things await me when I get there...just as good things were awaiting out in the world. I won't lose perspective because I know what's important. I'll take chances because I know what it's like to be inspired and to be an inspiration.
I have met some incredible people on the road, but it didn't happen right away. I remember in the beginning, I barely spoke with anyone. I had to go inside myself and figure out what the hell was I doing and how I ended up here. And, I'll tell you, it was one of the toughest things I've had to do. But the reward is that I know what it means to have soul mates and I'm so lucky to have met a few men and women who will always be connected to my soul. In considering all these new connections and relationships, the thing that I admire most about myself is that I know how to be alone. So, very clearly from my body, heart and soul, I can tell you that I am finally happy.
I'm glad you've been with me to experience this life changing trip. I'm looking forward seeing you and hearing your thoughts about my journey and the changes I've made.
So keep the champagne chilled...because I'm finally coming home.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Vancouver, Canada
Who knew Canada had Thanksgiving?! Yeah, and it's tomorrow! So I'll get 2 Thanksgivings this year, lucky me. Zahra and Matt came up to Van for a quick holiday, which I'm super stoked about and we're going to fix a feast! I'm staying at my friend Al-Riaz's place downtown. Yet another long time homie, we met back in '92 when he lived in California. Crazy, I know. Anyway, Van is a super cool city, I feel very urban chic here. It's definitely a lifestyle city, as Al-Riaz puts it. People work to have a good time. Therefore it's not unusual to go out dancing on Tuesday night, which we did last week. The local gay bar had straight night, whatever that means. I couldn't tell. But fun nonetheless.
Van is yet another city I could live in. Surrounded by water on 3 sides, cute happenin' neighborhoods, very walkable, tons of outdoor activities...just up my alley, all except the Canadian part. LOL, ok, just kidding - sort of.
It's been pretty chill the last few days. I signed up for some yoga classes which have kicked my ass, walked around English Bay, checked out the view from my the 32nd floor roof top deck and have eaten ridiculously well. Not a bad way to wrap up a world wide tour. Yes, I did say wrapping up, as in the end of my trip is in sight. I'll be leaving for Seattle for a few days and then I'm going to drive back home. The plan is to take a week to drive down the Washington, Oregon and NCal coasts and be back in the Bay on October 26th. I know, take a deep breath...it's even a lot of detail and planning for me :) But, as I've told you before, even the best laid plans have a way of getting twisted around, so I can't make any promises, but I hope to see you soon.
Van is yet another city I could live in. Surrounded by water on 3 sides, cute happenin' neighborhoods, very walkable, tons of outdoor activities...just up my alley, all except the Canadian part. LOL, ok, just kidding - sort of.
It's been pretty chill the last few days. I signed up for some yoga classes which have kicked my ass, walked around English Bay, checked out the view from my the 32nd floor roof top deck and have eaten ridiculously well. Not a bad way to wrap up a world wide tour. Yes, I did say wrapping up, as in the end of my trip is in sight. I'll be leaving for Seattle for a few days and then I'm going to drive back home. The plan is to take a week to drive down the Washington, Oregon and NCal coasts and be back in the Bay on October 26th. I know, take a deep breath...it's even a lot of detail and planning for me :) But, as I've told you before, even the best laid plans have a way of getting twisted around, so I can't make any promises, but I hope to see you soon.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Whistler, Canada
2 words - ZIP LINE!
Rez and I zipped through Whistler at 60km/hr on zip lines threaded throughout the trees in between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. What a rush! At first I was a little nervous, I mean who wouldn't be? Clicked onto a cable by a paperclip and then to willingly step off a platform 50m (at least!) above the forest floor. Yeah, I was a little nervous. But after the first zip, you think you're bloody James Bond, hanging upside down, spinning around Look, ma...No hands! It was so cool.
Whistler definitely made me miss home. Especially my girlfriends and our weekends in South Lake Tahoe! It's a super cute, fun, active village just like the village at Heavenly or Squaw Valley with tons of fantastic restaurants, bars, people watching patios and great, overpriced shopping. The weather, although rainy and cold, made for perfect autumn days. The leaves were changing color and the first snows of the season dusted the highest peaks overnight.
Rez and I bonded, again, and caught up on the last 10 years. We just picked up like it was yesterday. Funny how time and distance don't really effect relationships that are important to you. These special people never leave your heart because they've touched your soul. I feel very fortunate to have the friendships that I do...all around the world I've been looked after and thought of by my friends at home and the ones I've met along the way. And the great thing is that these relationships work without effort, whether I'm near or far, we are always connected.
Rez and I zipped through Whistler at 60km/hr on zip lines threaded throughout the trees in between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. What a rush! At first I was a little nervous, I mean who wouldn't be? Clicked onto a cable by a paperclip and then to willingly step off a platform 50m (at least!) above the forest floor. Yeah, I was a little nervous. But after the first zip, you think you're bloody James Bond, hanging upside down, spinning around Look, ma...No hands! It was so cool.
Whistler definitely made me miss home. Especially my girlfriends and our weekends in South Lake Tahoe! It's a super cute, fun, active village just like the village at Heavenly or Squaw Valley with tons of fantastic restaurants, bars, people watching patios and great, overpriced shopping. The weather, although rainy and cold, made for perfect autumn days. The leaves were changing color and the first snows of the season dusted the highest peaks overnight.
Rez and I bonded, again, and caught up on the last 10 years. We just picked up like it was yesterday. Funny how time and distance don't really effect relationships that are important to you. These special people never leave your heart because they've touched your soul. I feel very fortunate to have the friendships that I do...all around the world I've been looked after and thought of by my friends at home and the ones I've met along the way. And the great thing is that these relationships work without effort, whether I'm near or far, we are always connected.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Victoria, Canada
I'm in the Pacific Standard Time Zone! OMG, it's been great to be able to talk to my sister and friends and not have to calculate the time difference. See, it's the little things that make me happy.
So anyway, it was a very very teary good bye to my aunt...her and I are so similar, now all my weird quirks make sense. I'm so glad that I had a chance to spent 3 wonderful weeks with her. We had such a fabulous time. I haven't laughed that much, well, ever. We were like 2 giggly kids, with our inappropriate comments, and juvenile sense of humor. She's really the only one I can be like that with and I like it. It makes her that much more special to me.
I left for Vancouver at the crack of dawn on Tuesday, had a quick stop downtown to unload some of my pack (which has reached a ridiculous 31 lbs even after the shameful amount of stuff I sent home with Zahra), and then took the bus to the ferry and sailed over to Victoria to spend some time with my aunt and uncle on my mom's side. The ride over was stunning. Have you been anywhere in the Pacific Northwest, Seattle, San Juan Islands? It is breathtaking. I'm glad to be here in the fall...all the leaves are changing, the crowds are gone and it's very peaceful. Plus the weather has turned a little cool and it's nice to bundle up!
My Aunt and Uncle have a great place 10 minutes from quaint downtown Victoria. We've been doing a lot of walking around the waterfront, having lazy mornings and overall just relaxing. I'll be here for a few days before heading back to Vancouver to whoop it up with my long time friend, Rez, who's coming in from Atlanta. We've been friends for 20 years - damn, when you can reminisce in decades, well, you know you're not 10 anymore. He and I are also going to check out Whistler for a few days and I'm super excited, b/c it's somewhere I've always wanted to go. I am just squeezing out every last bit of fun on this trip that I can :)
So anyway, it was a very very teary good bye to my aunt...her and I are so similar, now all my weird quirks make sense. I'm so glad that I had a chance to spent 3 wonderful weeks with her. We had such a fabulous time. I haven't laughed that much, well, ever. We were like 2 giggly kids, with our inappropriate comments, and juvenile sense of humor. She's really the only one I can be like that with and I like it. It makes her that much more special to me.
I left for Vancouver at the crack of dawn on Tuesday, had a quick stop downtown to unload some of my pack (which has reached a ridiculous 31 lbs even after the shameful amount of stuff I sent home with Zahra), and then took the bus to the ferry and sailed over to Victoria to spend some time with my aunt and uncle on my mom's side. The ride over was stunning. Have you been anywhere in the Pacific Northwest, Seattle, San Juan Islands? It is breathtaking. I'm glad to be here in the fall...all the leaves are changing, the crowds are gone and it's very peaceful. Plus the weather has turned a little cool and it's nice to bundle up!
My Aunt and Uncle have a great place 10 minutes from quaint downtown Victoria. We've been doing a lot of walking around the waterfront, having lazy mornings and overall just relaxing. I'll be here for a few days before heading back to Vancouver to whoop it up with my long time friend, Rez, who's coming in from Atlanta. We've been friends for 20 years - damn, when you can reminisce in decades, well, you know you're not 10 anymore. He and I are also going to check out Whistler for a few days and I'm super excited, b/c it's somewhere I've always wanted to go. I am just squeezing out every last bit of fun on this trip that I can :)
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Montreal, Canada
I'm in Canada - did I mention that? But, in Montreal, and I'm pretty sure the entire province of Quebec, think they're a European country. I'll give you a clue...it starts with an 'F' and ends with 'rance'. For-The-Love. Not one sign for anything is in English. This is a first for me and I've been to a lot of places and seen a lot of signs. Unfortunately there is also a bit of 'tude going on here. Let me see if I can sum it up: irritable; I can't be bothered; just try and ask me for help; you obviously don't speak French; where the hell do you think you are, Canada?
Did I mention I'm in CANADA?
Ok, besides that, Montreal is a super cute city :) It was my cousin's birthday and I got spoiled. We stayed on the 32nd floor of the Sheraton downtown, overlooking the entire city. Hello - the bathroom had a hairdryer and room for dance lessons. (I'm so easily impressed these days - I mean if I don't have to share a bathroom with 10 others, I'm stoked) Anyway, we went to the BEST steakhouse for dinner...translated, it's called The Horse's Tail. I haven't had a steak since I left, so I totally indulged. That with a bottle of wine and a ridiculously decadent dessert and I was ready to be rolled out of the restaurant. But I pulled it together and we hit the happenin' part of town. My cousin and I showed our faces at a few hip spots before settling in to shake our groove thang at a multi level club. Good times with the family.
Did I mention I'm in CANADA?
Ok, besides that, Montreal is a super cute city :) It was my cousin's birthday and I got spoiled. We stayed on the 32nd floor of the Sheraton downtown, overlooking the entire city. Hello - the bathroom had a hairdryer and room for dance lessons. (I'm so easily impressed these days - I mean if I don't have to share a bathroom with 10 others, I'm stoked) Anyway, we went to the BEST steakhouse for dinner...translated, it's called The Horse's Tail. I haven't had a steak since I left, so I totally indulged. That with a bottle of wine and a ridiculously decadent dessert and I was ready to be rolled out of the restaurant. But I pulled it together and we hit the happenin' part of town. My cousin and I showed our faces at a few hip spots before settling in to shake our groove thang at a multi level club. Good times with the family.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Ottawa, Canada
So did anyone catch the NHL pre-season Ottawa Senators vs. the Philadelphia Flyers game Wednesday night? Of course you did. So you must have seen me on TV - club level, center ice, 4 rows up from the penalty box...yeah, that was the top of my head! I had a little understanding of the game from last year, but watching it live was so fun! Hockey players are tough dudes. There were 3 pretty good fights...gloves off...helmets off...totally going for it. I think that's why people enjoy hockey, that and the body slamming into the boards, b/c trying to follow the puck, well that's just pointless.
My aunt and I are visiting my cousins for a long weekend in Ottawa. We're headed to Montreal for a few days. Better brush up on my French. I was totally surprised when driving over here from Toronto...it's absolutely beautiful. It reminds me of New England, lots of trees/forests..and the leaves are changing color, it's just stunning. Although it's the capital, it's a small town with a small town feel. Downtown is super cute, with tons of restaurants and shops, beautiful churches with turquoise domes, and their Parliament buildings could have been picked right out from London. Can you tell...I'm impressed. And I'm in Canada.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Toronto, Canada
Toronto is such a cool city - I never really had a chance to check it out. Every time I've been here, it's to spend a quick weekend with my family and all I see is the airport and the inside of my aunt's apartment. It's quite diverse and cosmopolitan, which makes for an easy re-entry back into the western world.
I rented a car when I got here and it's been nice having the freedom to roll wherever I want. Although I've been a little scared of driving. I really have a hard time with what side of the road other cars are coming from, what side I should be on, can I turn left on red...you know, the usual concerns. But I'm managing :)
The highlight for me was seeing my sister! My parents and sister came to Toronto for the weekend to celebrate my birthday. We had family and friends over for dinner and they wanted a run down of what I've been doing for the last 8 months. No small task let me tell you. So I started off in New Zealand and worked my way through Turkey. I think I spoke for an hour (or so it felt). It was humbling, yet again, to reminisce on the things I've done, places I've been and people I've met. I'll never stop feeling how lucky I am.
Overall I've been chilling...my aunt and I laugh until we cry pretty much everyday - we don't even have to say anything! We're headed to Ottowa tomorrow to visit my cousin and his fam and then I'm off to Vancouver for 2-3 weeks. My oldest friend, I've known him for 20 years (!) will be in Van as well and I can't wait to catch up with him.
It's been months, but my US cell phone is back in working order! This is huge for me b/c I've had about 10 phone numbers over the last 7 months. I got a new sim card in almost every country which means that my number changed constantly. Yet another step closer to being back home.
I rented a car when I got here and it's been nice having the freedom to roll wherever I want. Although I've been a little scared of driving. I really have a hard time with what side of the road other cars are coming from, what side I should be on, can I turn left on red...you know, the usual concerns. But I'm managing :)
The highlight for me was seeing my sister! My parents and sister came to Toronto for the weekend to celebrate my birthday. We had family and friends over for dinner and they wanted a run down of what I've been doing for the last 8 months. No small task let me tell you. So I started off in New Zealand and worked my way through Turkey. I think I spoke for an hour (or so it felt). It was humbling, yet again, to reminisce on the things I've done, places I've been and people I've met. I'll never stop feeling how lucky I am.
Overall I've been chilling...my aunt and I laugh until we cry pretty much everyday - we don't even have to say anything! We're headed to Ottowa tomorrow to visit my cousin and his fam and then I'm off to Vancouver for 2-3 weeks. My oldest friend, I've known him for 20 years (!) will be in Van as well and I can't wait to catch up with him.
It's been months, but my US cell phone is back in working order! This is huge for me b/c I've had about 10 phone numbers over the last 7 months. I got a new sim card in almost every country which means that my number changed constantly. Yet another step closer to being back home.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Westward Bound
Even though I won't be back in California for several weeks, I still feel like I'm coming home. My extended family is in Canada and I'm really looking forward to be pampered and looked after for a bit :) Plus my sister and parents will be here to celebrate my b-day next weekend, and I can't wait to see them. I flew straight from Istanbul to JFK on Tuesday. I thought I would be more emotional about leaving Turkey, because I really did fall in love with the country, but when the customs officer in NY said 'welcome home', I almost cried. I've found that my 'special traveler' status is gone...when you're traveling the world everyone wants to talk to you, find out where you're from and where you've been. But in America (and I'm assuming in Canada as well) I'm just another American traveler. No one wants to hear my story or talk to me about my adventures. But I know that all of you will be anxiously awaiting... :)
I can't believe that my travels are coming to an end. I have had the most amazing journey - I am grateful everyday for this experience. I still feel so lucky and humbled most days. And the best part is that I've finally found who I really am - and man, I am so cool :)
So, I'll be in Toronto for a few weeks. My Internet access is limited, so the blogging will be minimal. Plus all I'll be doing is eating and drinking more chai with my aunt. Not a bad way to live :)
I can't believe that my travels are coming to an end. I have had the most amazing journey - I am grateful everyday for this experience. I still feel so lucky and humbled most days. And the best part is that I've finally found who I really am - and man, I am so cool :)
So, I'll be in Toronto for a few weeks. My Internet access is limited, so the blogging will be minimal. Plus all I'll be doing is eating and drinking more chai with my aunt. Not a bad way to live :)
Friday, September 5, 2008
Istanbul
Back in İstanbul after a RIDICULOUS bus journey. I started in Savur on Sunday a 10am and took a 1 hour minibus ride to Mardin. Of course I hadn't planned out my journey and I was just hoping that there would be a bus to Istanbul...and wouldn't you know it - there is. I was supposed to leave at 1pm but the bus was late and we left at 2pm. After stopping, oh I don't know, somewhere in the range of 7 times in an hour, we filled the bus and we're off. I already understood that the trip would be 18-21 hours and I'm ok with this b/c I really have nothing but time. So we start late, no problem; we stop frequently, also no problem; but then one of our drivers (we have 2 and 3 flight attendants) gets into a fight with one of the passengers - ok, small problem. Actually I have no idea what happened, but it was 7am and we are close to Istanbul and all hell breaks out at this bus stop.The next thing İ see is the passenger running after the driver with an orange construction cone...İ should have taped it b/c İ would have won the $10K prize from America's Funniest Home Video. Holy shit, I'm still laughing.
But what's not funny is that this spectacle adds at least an hour onto my journey. I get into the Istanbul bus station or rather JFK airport around 12pm. The bus station is crazy - there are least 150 platforms with buses coming and going from every direction. Did İ mention pedestrians do not have the right of way here? Yeah, good to know.
3 more buses and 2 hours later, I am back in Istinye with Sercan and Jim. Tıme passes easily with these two and we are constantly laughing, talking, sharing... they have become my dear frıends, and the next thing you know another week ın Istanbul has passed. I am headed to Edirne tomorrow for a few days, and, get ready for this...I'm crossing the pond on Tuesday and headed to Toronto for a month ın Canada. When I bought my ticket, I thought I would have been a little more emotional about ıt, but surprisingly, I wasn't. What really choked me was the price of the ticket.
I'm on my way...
But what's not funny is that this spectacle adds at least an hour onto my journey. I get into the Istanbul bus station or rather JFK airport around 12pm. The bus station is crazy - there are least 150 platforms with buses coming and going from every direction. Did İ mention pedestrians do not have the right of way here? Yeah, good to know.
3 more buses and 2 hours later, I am back in Istinye with Sercan and Jim. Tıme passes easily with these two and we are constantly laughing, talking, sharing... they have become my dear frıends, and the next thing you know another week ın Istanbul has passed. I am headed to Edirne tomorrow for a few days, and, get ready for this...I'm crossing the pond on Tuesday and headed to Toronto for a month ın Canada. When I bought my ticket, I thought I would have been a little more emotional about ıt, but surprisingly, I wasn't. What really choked me was the price of the ticket.
I'm on my way...
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Mt. Nemrut, Mardin, Savur
I just came back from a week in Eastern Turkey and it was absolutely stunning. I was quite surprised to hear warnings from many western Turks about traveling to the East alone. But all the other travelers that I spoke with, said that the east is not to be missed. I started in Mt. Nemrut from Capadoccia, a 12 hour bus ride. I tell you, I'd take a 12 hour bus ride in Turkey over an hour in an Indian bus any day. They have bus attendants, similar to flight attendants that serve beverages, cake and ice cream! But my ride did suck because I had to sit in the jump seat next to the driver for almost the entire overnight journey. So I got to Khata and was totally jacked. I stayed in a little village called Karadut about 12km from the top of Nemrut. The pension owner told me to find the Karadut Market and talk to Mustafa and he'll help me get a minibus (this is the local transport) to Karadut. Ok, so İ'm a little nervous and skeptical about this, but quickly realize that this is the old me thinking. İ consciously change my energy and wouldn't you know, I meet Mustafa right away and end up having breakfast with him and his son at the shop. We took a ton of pictures and he gave me the shop address so I can mail them to him. İ am constantly amazed at what happens when İ stop to think about the energy that I put out into the world. It doesn't happen like a wish, but rather, it is something that İ truly feel in my heart. Sometimes İ think that İ'm thinking positively, only to realize that my thought is really negative and İ'm just 'hoping' things will work out. Funny how life has a way of discerning these things.
So, Mt. Nemrut has these massive statues at the top of the mountain, but the heads have fallen off and now they sit at the feet of their bodies. İ didn't get many pictures b/c the batteries in my - camera died - damn it. But İ did watch an amazing sunset in the desert.
From Mt. Nemrut I headed southeast, I think I was 70km from the Syrian border, to Mardin. What an amazing little town. Kurds, Turks, Arabs and Christians all live peacefully in this beautiful place. For 2 days I sat in a chai shop and looked out at the honey colored desert that stretched to Syria. It was a surreal experience...the desert is mesmerizing.
One more minibus ride and İ was in the sweet town of Savur. İ splurged on a place to stay b/c it had an amazing view of the valley below. There is a river that runs through the valley, but you can't see it because of the trees that grow around it. So from my perch all you see is a river of green snaking through the mountains. The town is smaller than Mardin and they don't see many tourists, especially women travelling alone. But after being stared at for a good long while (İ have just come to accept this - with my big sunglasses, short hair, height.. and lets face it, İ'm damn cute, well: people stare), İ was welcomed into every tea shop. The family İ stayed with treated me like a long lost relative and it was good to be looked after for a night. And let me tell you, İ needed a good night's sleep because İ was about to embark on an epic bus journey that would last 30 hours....
So, Mt. Nemrut has these massive statues at the top of the mountain, but the heads have fallen off and now they sit at the feet of their bodies. İ didn't get many pictures b/c the batteries in my - camera died - damn it. But İ did watch an amazing sunset in the desert.
From Mt. Nemrut I headed southeast, I think I was 70km from the Syrian border, to Mardin. What an amazing little town. Kurds, Turks, Arabs and Christians all live peacefully in this beautiful place. For 2 days I sat in a chai shop and looked out at the honey colored desert that stretched to Syria. It was a surreal experience...the desert is mesmerizing.
One more minibus ride and İ was in the sweet town of Savur. İ splurged on a place to stay b/c it had an amazing view of the valley below. There is a river that runs through the valley, but you can't see it because of the trees that grow around it. So from my perch all you see is a river of green snaking through the mountains. The town is smaller than Mardin and they don't see many tourists, especially women travelling alone. But after being stared at for a good long while (İ have just come to accept this - with my big sunglasses, short hair, height.. and lets face it, İ'm damn cute, well: people stare), İ was welcomed into every tea shop. The family İ stayed with treated me like a long lost relative and it was good to be looked after for a night. And let me tell you, İ needed a good night's sleep because İ was about to embark on an epic bus journey that would last 30 hours....
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Capadoccıa
I've been having a bout of writers block about Capadoccia. I don't know why...I think it's because I've had a travel partner for the last 10 days. And instead of talking to you, I've been talking to him. But we parted ways in Goreme and I was more emotional than I thought I would be. It just came to be that we traveled for so long together, but I think that's why it worked, because it was easy. In my mind I thought that it would be good to do the last bit of traveling alone, but along with the rest of my planning, that didn't happen. Almost the entire time I've been in Turkey, I've been with other travelers. Sometimes I would insta-bond just because they were from California or the States or just spoke English! Only to find out that our travel styles, outlook on life, perspective on reality was different, so after an hour or a day, we'd part ways. As you know it's hard to travel with someone 24/7 and really hard when you don't know the person. So I consider myself lucky to have made a new friend and even luckier that Josh and I had such a great time exploring Turkey together... sometimes it's nice not being the driver and the navigator. So thanks, Josh, for helping me find the words when my English was limited, for listening to my crazy stories, for making great Nescafe, for calling me a hippie and for sometimes being the driver and sometimes being the navigator.
So, Capadoccia! What a fairy tale of a place. This is an area of crazy rock formations, some look like melting ice cream with caves and carvings (have you ever seen any of Gaudi's work? Look him up, check out the buildings in Barcelona), some like giant penis' (is that the plural? when have i ever had to type that word), some like mushrooms. It's unreal. We stayed in Goreme, which is a great town that blends old village with modern tourism, at the Flintstones. Yes, in a cave! It was so cool. We had tea in a tea garden where the same groups of old men gather to place backgammon and drink endless cups of tea. Oh, speaking of, I must drink like 7 cups a day, they're so small and cute, and it's such an easy thing to stop and do when your tired of cruising around. Anyway, we did an all-day tour which was fantastic except for the obligatory stop at the onyx factory. I swear, anything to get you to buy something.
I left on the overnight train to Mt. Nemrut and Josh is now sleeping in his own bed in San Francisco, I'm so jealous.
So, Capadoccia! What a fairy tale of a place. This is an area of crazy rock formations, some look like melting ice cream with caves and carvings (have you ever seen any of Gaudi's work? Look him up, check out the buildings in Barcelona), some like giant penis' (is that the plural? when have i ever had to type that word), some like mushrooms. It's unreal. We stayed in Goreme, which is a great town that blends old village with modern tourism, at the Flintstones. Yes, in a cave! It was so cool. We had tea in a tea garden where the same groups of old men gather to place backgammon and drink endless cups of tea. Oh, speaking of, I must drink like 7 cups a day, they're so small and cute, and it's such an easy thing to stop and do when your tired of cruising around. Anyway, we did an all-day tour which was fantastic except for the obligatory stop at the onyx factory. I swear, anything to get you to buy something.
I left on the overnight train to Mt. Nemrut and Josh is now sleeping in his own bed in San Francisco, I'm so jealous.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Konya
We decided to couch surf in Konya, the final resting place of the Sufi, Rumi, and home to the whirling dervishes. We found George, new to couchsurfing, and we were his first guests. OMG - he was great, generous and eager to show us his town. We arrived around 6pm and from that moment until about 1am we were non stop. We went for dinner, coffee, tea, downtown, uptown, the river, if there was a sight to be seen, he showed us. He played photographer with my camera and the results are priceless.
One thing he didn't mention was that he lives with his family, who just happened to be on vacation...except for dad whom we had breakfast with the following morning :)
Konya is the first city that I've been to (so far) where I really felt a religious presence. Women cover their heads, there wasn't a drop of beer to be found, and the city pretty much shuts down around 11pm. Ok, you're right, where there is beer to be had, we will find it. We just happened to spy an Efes sign (local turkish beer) down an alley, so we walk towards it, only to find 3 guys kind of lurking in front of a small shop that has one cooler full of Efes in a can or bottle. I mean I thought that some shit was going down! All this to buy beer. The guy almost wrapped it in newspaper but then gave it to us in a dark plastic bag. I thought for sure the beer police would hear the bottles clanking away in my bag, but we made it back to the hotel and couldn't help but laugh at yet another adventure in Konya.
One thing he didn't mention was that he lives with his family, who just happened to be on vacation...except for dad whom we had breakfast with the following morning :)
Konya is the first city that I've been to (so far) where I really felt a religious presence. Women cover their heads, there wasn't a drop of beer to be found, and the city pretty much shuts down around 11pm. Ok, you're right, where there is beer to be had, we will find it. We just happened to spy an Efes sign (local turkish beer) down an alley, so we walk towards it, only to find 3 guys kind of lurking in front of a small shop that has one cooler full of Efes in a can or bottle. I mean I thought that some shit was going down! All this to buy beer. The guy almost wrapped it in newspaper but then gave it to us in a dark plastic bag. I thought for sure the beer police would hear the bottles clanking away in my bag, but we made it back to the hotel and couldn't help but laugh at yet another adventure in Konya.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Olympos, Turkey
Talk about getting sucked in...Olympos is that kind of place. Its hardly a town, more like a village or giant campsite with mostly backpackers and a smattering of locals thrown in. Its claim to fame are the tree houses; some of them are pretty cool, but most are just wood structures without a roof on stilts. I opted for the dorm and a/c. Josh and I spent 3 nights in Olympos and honestly, I don't know where the time went. It was so ridiculously hot, that even walking the 10 minutes to the beach took me 2 days. Most of my time was spent lounging and reading, trying not to move too much. After 4 days on the boat I wasn't about to break the relaxation spell. However, the one super cool thing I did was get up at the crack of dawn to watch a baby turtle, just hatched, make it's way to the sea...
I ran into a couple that I met on one of my many bus rides and we were immediately invited into the 'cool' group. They had taken over one of the harem areas and we carried on laughing and drinking until the wee hours. And so 3 days passed...I could have easily spent the rest of my time in Turkey here.
I ran into a couple that I met on one of my many bus rides and we were immediately invited into the 'cool' group. They had taken over one of the harem areas and we carried on laughing and drinking until the wee hours. And so 3 days passed...I could have easily spent the rest of my time in Turkey here.
Friday, August 15, 2008
Selcuk, Fethiye, Blue Cruise, Turkey
I took the overnight bus from Istanbul to Selcuk (say: Sal-chuk). The bus system here is very easy, but we stopped like 5 times on a 10 hour journey. I stayed in Selcuk to see the ancient ruins in Ephesus, but, and this sounds so bad, after being in Petra I wasn't as 'wow-ed' as I should have been. But the place I stayed, Atilla's Getaway was well worth the trip out there. It's an oasis with a pool and tons of places to chill out with a good book. I spent 2 very lazy days lounging in a Turkish sitting area (harem), you know, carpets, pillows, no shoes, nargile (hooka). I really can't complain.
I've been surprised to meet so many Americans traveling in Turkey. In fact, I think I've met more Americans here than I have in the last 6 months. I met Josh from San Francisco and we decided that if the timing worked out with our travels we'd take the Blue Cruise together. So from Selcuk I headed to the Mediterranean Coast to Fethiye (say: Fet-ee-ya) where the boat was leaving on Saturday to Olympos. The boat is actually a gullet, but we never sailed, which was a little disappointing, but I got over it right quick after my daily morning swim in the Med. Ok, so if you haven't had a twinge of jealousy yet, now is the time to stop reading.
After 2 nights in Fethiye and 2 nights in Faralya in a bungalow overlooking butterfly valley, I met Josh on the dock and we set off for 4 days cruising the Med. I don't think I've mentioned, but it is hot here - I'd say close to 100 every day. Even being on the water it was crazy hot. So everyone took their bedding from the staterooms and slept on the deck on lounge cushions. It was so fun, like one giant slumber party. We used our stateroom as a big closet with shower and toilet. Ok, right, so there were 2 couples from Turkey, 4 people from Spain and a family of 4 from Libya.
In the beginning our group was a little shy, but by day 2 we were all friends. It was really easy to talk to everyone, even when english was limited. I absolutely fell in love with the Libyan family, and have promised that I will visit one day.
On the last night the captain promised us an evening of fun and shortly after dinner a boat pulled up to take us to the Smugglers Inn - a disco/bar on the beach. OMG, what a riot! Each gulet's passengers had taken over a harem to chill in, but our group hit the dance floor like banshees and we didn't stop until everyone had left.
One of my 'must do's' on this trip was this cruise and I'm so glad that I was able to! 4 days of looking out at the beautiful blue Mediterranean, swimming, reading and meeting new friends...this is what vacation is all about. Now if I could just stop rocking...
I've been surprised to meet so many Americans traveling in Turkey. In fact, I think I've met more Americans here than I have in the last 6 months. I met Josh from San Francisco and we decided that if the timing worked out with our travels we'd take the Blue Cruise together. So from Selcuk I headed to the Mediterranean Coast to Fethiye (say: Fet-ee-ya) where the boat was leaving on Saturday to Olympos. The boat is actually a gullet, but we never sailed, which was a little disappointing, but I got over it right quick after my daily morning swim in the Med. Ok, so if you haven't had a twinge of jealousy yet, now is the time to stop reading.
After 2 nights in Fethiye and 2 nights in Faralya in a bungalow overlooking butterfly valley, I met Josh on the dock and we set off for 4 days cruising the Med. I don't think I've mentioned, but it is hot here - I'd say close to 100 every day. Even being on the water it was crazy hot. So everyone took their bedding from the staterooms and slept on the deck on lounge cushions. It was so fun, like one giant slumber party. We used our stateroom as a big closet with shower and toilet. Ok, right, so there were 2 couples from Turkey, 4 people from Spain and a family of 4 from Libya.
In the beginning our group was a little shy, but by day 2 we were all friends. It was really easy to talk to everyone, even when english was limited. I absolutely fell in love with the Libyan family, and have promised that I will visit one day.
On the last night the captain promised us an evening of fun and shortly after dinner a boat pulled up to take us to the Smugglers Inn - a disco/bar on the beach. OMG, what a riot! Each gulet's passengers had taken over a harem to chill in, but our group hit the dance floor like banshees and we didn't stop until everyone had left.
One of my 'must do's' on this trip was this cruise and I'm so glad that I was able to! 4 days of looking out at the beautiful blue Mediterranean, swimming, reading and meeting new friends...this is what vacation is all about. Now if I could just stop rocking...
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