Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina

The bus ride from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo was absolutely beautiful. Bosnia-Herzcegovina (BH) is lush and green, contrary to what I thought. The coast is more rock than green, but traveling inland, the landscape turned almost rainforest like. We drove along a dark emerald green river with mountains climbing up either side. The water was so still in some places you could see the leaves reflected. The towns are very small with white buildings and red tile roofs. Most of the stone/brick buildings were destroyed in the war, remnants of which we saw on the drive.

Sarajevo is a great city, lots of energy and a good vibe. But again with the war damaged buildings! Ten story apartment buildings that have bullet holes (still!) and in some places where something larger hit, the concrete is crumbled down to the re-bar. There is also a street called 'sniper alley' where I'm sure you can guess what happened. The Holiday Inn where all the journalists holed up covering the war is now a tourist spot and the tunnels they used to get people and goods in and out of the city is a museum.

I think being in these countries makes such an impact on me because the war started when I was in high school, so old enough to read about it, watch it on the news and understand what was happening. It's completely overwhelming to actually see the damage. But they are independent now and people love their country. It's a very welcoming and beautiful feeling when you come to a country where the people are happy just being citizens, where family and friends come first and everything else is the means to being able to spend time with those you love.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

I arrived in Dubrovnik yesterday...it's a stunning city. The old city is walled in complete with turrets, clock tower and the oldest running pharmacy in all of Europe, I think. It's hard to think that this city, this country, was at war just 17 years ago. I met a Croatian who said the 'worst things' were the grenades coming over the wall and the sniper fire. He said the entire Old City was on fire and the walls crumbling from attack, right where we were sitting. You can still see bullet holes in the sides of buildings and part of structures that they just never rebuilt. It's pretty intense.

So, I don't think I've mentioned, but it's been raining for the past few days, not all day, but there are a few hours when it's thunder, lightening and a torrential downpour. Of course I sent my rain coat back with Zahra, thinking the worst of it was over. But today is beautiful and I'm headed to the beach. The beaches along the Adriatic are mostly just rocks, sometimes small and sometimes boulders. I just end up pushing them around until I get them to support me. Believe me, I'm definitely not complaining!

I'm headed to Sarajevo tomorrow for a quick 2 night stay because I'm flying to London on Wednesday and then back to Africa on Sunday! I've had a little change in travel plans. I got in touch with an old friend who is volunteering at a sports festival in Nairobi and invited me along. So I'm heading out on Sunday for a week :) I know, crazy me.

Korcula, Croatia

So I have managed my way from Rovinj to Rijeka to Zadar to Split and finally to the island of Korcula. Wow - it's ridiculously beautiful here. I arrived by ferry from Split and met another woman traveling alone. We stayed at the only backpackers, called One Love (OK!) last night. The Lonely Planet describes it as a well run, fun management, but not a place to get much sleep. So true :) I checked into a private room in an lady's house this morning. This is the norm, more than hostels and backpackers. The little old ladies come accosting you at the bus and ferry stations with pictures and maps of their places. For the most part you can negotiate a good deal, especially since it is only mid-season. And with all the negotiating I have under my belt, you can be sure I am getting a good deal.

You know, it's been interesting for me the last several weeks, being back in "western" culture. I struggled to find myself, because I felt like I couldn't go back to the 'old' me - the one before this trip - but I've found it hard to maintain the 'new' me in this part of the world. I know eventually I will be back in the US and I will have to adjust, and I wonder how that will play out. I check in with myself and really think about: ˝is what I'm doing making me happy?˝ Sometimes the answer isn't as clear or as easy as you'd think.

As I grapple with the adjustment, I've come to understand that regardless of where I am and what I'm doing, I am already different and I feel good about who I am. I understand that life isn't about having your environment dictate who you are, but knowing yourself well enough to be true to who you are and flexible enough to appreciate your environment. I really didn't think about how much I would be effected by being back in 'western' culture, but because I've changed, I am already make a difference in the world.

Rovinj

Say: Rovin. The j is silent, why even have it? whatever
Ok, so I have just met the tallest person in my life. 7 feet 2 inches - are you joking? I had to squint to talk to him b/c I was burning my retinas looking up at the sun. No joke. Our chance meeting happened due to the bus breaking down from Zagreb to Rovinj. It's already a 6 hour journey, made longer b/c of mechanical problems. But everyone on the bus was very friendly, and luckily we broke down in front of a cafe. I also met Jake and Millie, Croatian Americans who have been living in the US for 40 years or so. I think they learned english in New Jersey, b/c Millie was full of "whaddaya, crazy?" She complained about her fellow countrymen tinkering with the bus, while her husband threw back 3 or 4 beers and kept telling her to chill out. It was very endearing.
Rovinj is a great coastal city, it really reminds me of Venice with the narrow cobblestone alleyways and laundry hanging from building to building. I've been here for 3 days and am reluctantly leaving tomorrow. And for all my friends who have been waiting for me to announce: yes, there is a mega yacht docked here and yes I am trying my damnedest to get an invite (where are my gold shoes!) This thing must be 300 feet and has a helicopter parked on deck 3. Plus their version of the 'zodiac' to get them from ship to shore, is just a regular 'ole yacht. More to come on that. Keep your fingers crossed :)

Zagreb, Croatia

Thanks for your patience while I partied it up with my girlfriends. Here is a quick, G-rated summary of my last few weeks:
Greece was amazing and beautiful. Jen and I hit Athens and the islands of Paros and Santorini. My favorite was Paros, its very laid back and quaint. Definitely quintessential Greece with the white buildings, blue roof tops and cobblestone alleyways.
I forgot how much I love Italy! Venice was beautiful, beyond what I expected. Spending time with Kelsey was unforgettable. The wedding we went to at Lake Garda was spectacular, minus the torrential downpour all day.
And that's all I'll say about that.

I took the train to Zagreb, Croatia from Venice, its a quick 7 hour ride...I arrived at 4am, which at the rate I´d been going, was no big deal. But the late nights caught up with me and I got sick :( I feel bad for the people in my dorm room, b/c I have been coughing up a lung these last few days. I think a guy actually requested to move to a different room b/c of me...sorry! Anyway, I cruised around Zagreb for two days, it's an interesting city, lots of eastern and western European architecture, but overall unremarkable. The best, or worst, thing about this city is everyone parties, all day, every day. I swear people were drinking beers at 10:30 in the morning, like people who live-work here...not just me! HA

Ok, really, I waited until 11am, I mean its 5 somewhere right?

But it's really laid back, you can linger over a cup of coffee, or beer for hours and no one pressures you with the bill, or gives you the eye to get on.

Greece/Italy

Farah Dunn is on vacation until June 2, 2008. There will be no blogging during this time, as all the stories are too scandalous to publish.

I am off to Italy tomorrow to meet up with Kelsey for a week. Spending time with Jennifer in Greece was beyond fantastic.

more to come.
Miss you all!

3 Months!

I can't believe 3 months have passed since I left California. I feel grounded, secure, strong, confident and at the same time, I feel calm and peaceful. Navigating part of the world, alone, has put all my emotions to the test. I am better than before, I feel better, I think I look better. Or it could be that I finally got a hair cut and an eyebrow wax. The lady at the salon said I looked "lighter". Not sure if she meant physically or spiritually, but it's a good description of how I feel.

I'm in the suburbs of Tel Aviv, visiting my very good friend Masha and her family. Her children are beautiful and even though we don't speak the same language, throwing the ball, chocolate and hugs are universal. I'm getting primed for my jaunt to Europe, other than having my hair cut, I'm trading in my convertible pants-to-shorts, my scruffy t-shirts, and all my 'roughin' in gear' for some European appropriate attire. Which means, jeans! And maybe a dress! And some shoes!

From here I'm meeting my best friend in Greece for a 10-day holiday during my holiday and then a quick trip to Italy for a wedding (since I'm in the area and all). And then I head back to Eastern Europe: Turkey, Czech Republic, Romania, and potentially Russia. I'm trying to stay away from countries on the Euro, since the dollar is doing so poorly...
But you know, this could all change in a minute, given I have no set plan. And given the way things have gone so far, I'm rather expecting that what I expect to do, will change. So for all of my lovely friends who are anxiously awaiting my return, I can only say that it will most likely be sometime this year, but no promises :) However, I will give you plenty of advanced notice so you have time to chill the drinks and draft your toasts to how much you missed me. Thank you for your well wishes. I enjoy reading your comments on my blog...and that you actually read it and like it! That's to much :) I miss you too!