Saturday, June 28, 2008

Nairobi, Kenya


Yes, back in Africa and I love it! I was invited to tag along and help at a Sports Festival for my religious community. Most of you know that I grew up Ismaili Muslim, but I have been 'out of practice' for the past 15 years (or so). So why did I decided to come to the Games? It took me a while to figure it out, but I realize that I miss the sense of community. Aside from the religious aspect, Ismailis are very involved in volunteering and in third world development. Which is something that has become more and more important to me as I gain insight on myself during this trip. But again, what was I doing spending a week with 5000 other Ismaili's? I won't lie, it was a little overwhelming at times. But I took my time outs to regroup and it was a very rewarding experience.

I didn't see much of Nairobi, since most of my time was spent in a cab or bus to and from the 'Village' and the Kasarani Sports Center. Did you know that Nairobi is the 3rd most dangerous city in Africa? Yeah, I didn't know either u
ntil I got into town. Probably would have helped to do a bit of research before just jumping on a plane. I mean even walking across the street is dangerous. Security at the hotel was tight, especially since we stayed downtown. I never felt targeted, but we heard stories, and that was enough for me to keep my solo meanderings to a minimum.

The Games were amazing. There were athletes from 20 countries, including
Syria, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan, UK, US, Canada, Uganda, Tanzania and of course, Kenya. All together about 1200, participating in volleyball, basketball, soccer, swimming, track & field, table tennis, badminton & chess (is this really a sport? no offense). I knew that I would be recruited to help and I was all for it. I volunteered to help with the player's uniforms. We pressed flags and numbers on thousands of jerseys. Although the majority of the work was done the week before, we repressed all of the Syrian athletes shirts at least twice. Logistics were great but something always falls through the cracks.

I was overwhelmed by the Kenyan hospitality and the coordination effort of countless volunteers, who worked 18+ months, in addition to their regular jobs, who made the Games such a success. On the first day I met Laila, from the UK, who knew about half of the people at the games. Therefore, I was introduced to about 2000 people in a week - no joke. Her and I meeting wasn't an accident. I was in need of the community and she brought me to it. By the end of the week, people were greeting me like we were old friends. I made some friends for life, in a week (!). As far as connecting with others, this trip has been the most rewarding thing I've done.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Sarajevo, Bosnia-Hercegovina

The bus ride from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo was absolutely beautiful. Bosnia-Herzcegovina (BH) is lush and green, contrary to what I thought. The coast is more rock than green, but traveling inland, the landscape turned almost rainforest like. We drove along a dark emerald green river with mountains climbing up either side. The water was so still in some places you could see the leaves reflected. The towns are very small with white buildings and red tile roofs. Most of the stone/brick buildings were destroyed in the war, remnants of which we saw on the drive.

Sarajevo is a great city, lots of energy and a good vibe. But again with the war damaged buildings! Ten story apartment buildings that have bullet holes (still!) and in some places where something larger hit, the concrete is crumbled down to the re-bar. There is also a street called 'sniper alley' where I'm sure you can guess what happened. The Holiday Inn where all the journalists holed up covering the war is now a tourist spot and the tunnels they used to get people and goods in and out of the city is a museum.

I think being in these countries makes such an impact on me because the war started when I was in high school, so old enough to read about it, watch it on the news and understand what was happening. It's completely overwhelming to actually see the damage. But they are independent now and people love their country. It's a very welcoming and beautiful feeling when you come to a country where the people are happy just being citizens, where family and friends come first and everything else is the means to being able to spend time with those you love.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Dubrovnik, Croatia


I arrived in Dubrovnik yesterday...it's a stunning city. The old city is walled in complete with turrets, clock tower and the oldest running pharmacy in all of Europe, I think. It's hard to think that this city, this country, was at war just 17 years ago. I met a Croatian who said the 'worst things' were the grenades coming over the wall and the sniper fire. He said the entire Old City was on fire and the walls crumbling from attack, right where we were sitting. You can still see bullet holes in the sides of buildings and part of structures that they just never rebuilt. It's pretty intense.

So, I don't think I've mentioned, but it's been raining for the past few days, not all day, but there are a few hours when it's thunder, lightening and a torrential downpour. Of course I sent my rain coat back with Zahra, thinking the worst of it was over. But today is beautiful and I'm headed to the beach. The beaches along the Adriatic are mostly just rocks, sometimes small and sometimes boulders. I just end up pushing them around until I get them to support me. Believe me, I'm definitely not complaining!

I'm headed to Sarajevo tomorrow for a quick 2 night stay because I'm flying to London on Wednesday and then back to Africa on Sunday! I've had a little change in travel plans. I got in touch with an old friend who is volunteering at a sports festival in Nairobi and invited me along. So I'm heading out on Sunday for a week :) I know, crazy me.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Korcula, Croatia



So I have managed my way from Rovinj to Rijeka to Zadar to Split and finally to the island of Korcula. Wow - it's ridiculously beautiful here. I arrived by ferry from Split and met another woman traveling alone. We stayed at the only backpackers, called One Love (OK!) last night. The Lonely Planet describes it as a well run, fun management, but not a place to get much sleep. So true :) I checked into a private room in an lady's house this morning. This is the norm, more than hostels and backpackers. The little old ladies come accosting you at the bus and ferry stations with pictures and maps of their places. For the most part you can negotiate a good deal, especially since it is only mid-season. And with all the negotiating I have under my belt, you can be sure I am getting a good deal.

You know, it's been interesting for me the last several weeks, being back in "western" culture. I struggled to find myself, because I felt like I couldn't go back to the 'old' me - the one before this trip - but I've found it hard to maintain the 'new' me in this part of the world. I know eventually I will be back in the US and I will have to adjust, and I wonder how that will play out. I check in with myself and really think about: ˝is what I'm doing making me happy?˝ Sometimes the answer isn't as clear or as easy as you'd think.

As I grapple with the adjustment, I've come to understand that regardless of where I am and what I'm doing, I am already different and I feel good about who I am. I understand that life isn't about having your environment dictate who you are, but knowing yourself well enough to be true to who you are and flexible enough to appreciate your environment. I really didn't think about how much I would be effected by being back in 'western' culture, but because I've changed, I am already make a difference in the world.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Rovinj



Say: Rovin. The j is silent, why even have it? whatever
Ok, so I have just met the tallest person in my life. 7 feet 2 inches - are you joking? I had to squint to talk to him b/c I was burning my retinas looking up at the sun. No joke. Our chance meeting happened due to the bus breaking down from Zagreb to Rovinj. It's already a 6 hour journey, made longer b/c of mechanical problems. But everyone on the bus was very friendly, and luckily we broke down in front of a cafe. I also met Jake and Millie, Croatian Americans who have been living in the US for 40 years or so. I think they learned english in New Jersey, b/c Millie was full of "whaddaya, crazy?" She complained about her fellow countrymen tinkering with the bus, while her husband threw back 3 or 4 beers and kept telling her to chill out. It was very endearing.
Rovinj is a great coastal city, it really reminds me of Venice with the narrow cobblestone alleyways and laundry hanging from building to building. I've been here for 3 days and am reluctantly leaving tomorrow. And for all my friends who have been waiting for me to announce: yes, there is a mega yacht docked here and yes I am trying my damnedest to get an invite (where are my gold shoes!) This thing must be 300 feet and has a helicopter parked on deck 3. Plus their version of the 'zodiac' to get them from ship to shore, is just a regular 'ole yacht. More to come on that. Keep your fingers crossed :)

Monday, June 2, 2008

Zagreb, Croatia


Thanks for your patience while I partied it up with my girlfriends. Here is a quick, G-rated summary of my last few weeks:
Greece was amazing and beautiful. Jen and I hit Athens and the islands of Paros and Santorini. My favorite was Paros, its very laid back and quaint. Definitely quintessential Greece with the white buildings, blue roof tops and cobblestone alleyways.
I forgot how much I love Italy! Venice was beautiful, beyond what I expected. Spending time with Kelsey was unforgettable. The wedding we went to at Lake Garda was spectacular, minus the torrential downpour all day.

And that's all I'll say about that.

I took the train to Zagreb, Croatia from Venice, its a quick 7 hour ride...I arrived at 4am, which at the rate I´d been going, was no big deal. But the late nights caught up with me and I got sick :( I feel bad for the people in my dorm room, b/c I have been coughing up a lung these last few days. I think a guy actually requested to move to a different room b/c of me...sorry! Anyway, I cruised around Zagreb for two days, it's an interesting city, lots of eastern and western European architecture, but overall unremarkable. The best, or worst, thing about this city is everyone parties, all day, every day. I swear people were drinking beers at 10:30 in the morning, like people who live-work here...not just me! HA

Ok, really, I waited until 11am, I mean its 5 somewhere right?

But it's really laid back, you can linger over a cup of coffee, or beer for hours and no one pressures you with the bill, or gives you the eye to get on.